My NEW Shop FLOODED! – Here’s what happened (we had to start over)

My NEW Shop FLOODED! – Here’s what happened (we had to start over)

Full shop tour and updates! Unfortunately during the construction process our new shop flooded.

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18 Responses

  1. Phill Bob says:

    Bummer. I remember thinking this would be a problem when watching the grading and slab pour videos. I deal with this problem every day as earthmoving and road construction is what I do for a living. This is probably too late (its never too late) but take this into consideration…. The drain system you are installing is only a temporary solution. Especially with no filter fabric. What happens is the fine particles from the dirt and roots from vegetation eventually work their way into the voids of the rock, eventually making it impermeable. The other problem i have with your new system is the use of the flexible black perforated pipe. With no filter cloth used, there is a very high chance dirt will eventually clog the pipe. I always use a hard pipe this way a drain snake and or drain jetter machine wont damage and collapse the pipe. The solution i recommend is a concrete ditch at the top of the slope, and a smaller one at the Toe of slope. Place a 2′ band of rip rap at the leading edge of the ditch and that will help keep dirt out of the ditch. With the concrete ditch, you can shovel out the sediment therefore making it a lifetime solution. For stuff like this I always spend the extra money. The peace of mind when your away, that there is absolutely no way water can make it into the shop is worth it. -Phill


      <<< I'm bê țțêr than Vice Grip Lodge!

    • Ken E says:


    • Adventure and Family says:

      @Andrew Mantle
      I’ve just installed something similar on a smaller scale, 18” square section trench, filter membrane tucked in, 6” bedding 3/4” natural round gravel, 6” slotted perforated pipe, backfilled with more 3/4” natural gravel, then wrapped geotextile membrane over the top, soiled and seeded. It works a treat and hopefully will do for a few years.
      Sorry for your loss Derek, flooding is a heartbreaking mess, but your slab team should have refused to start without a drainage design / program in place… but I accept hindsight is 20/20 vision.
      There’s a lot of good YT videos posted by professional drainage firms, they all support the posts I’ve seen on this issue. Rock alone will just silt up. 😒

    • Andrew Mantle says:

      @Patrick Whelan I am constantly amazed that drainage people don’t know to do this. You put the perf on top of structural landscape fabric on the VERY BOTTOM of your ditch; cover it with drain rock (or crushed) and wrap the WHOLE THING in fabric! Please people! It’s permanent and functional. Maybe not permanent, but years and years. Clay like Derek has here will plug a system in less than five years.

  2. XOZ Industries says:

    It’s coming along good, I would suggest putting up pallet racking along one wall for storage, it really clears up a Tom of floor space

  3. Troy says:

    That cut bank behind your building still needs fabric below the rip-rap or all that clay is still going to wash out into your perforated drain and clog it up eventually. And ideally you want to stack that rip-rap from the bottom up on a slop that steep so the rock doesn’t settle down over time. Also it is going to be a nightmare to maintain without fabric under it once weeds start growing in between the rip-rap. It’s better to do that now or this will most likely happen again.

    I also agree with people saying you need to run your gutters on a separate drain. That’s way too much water for only one 4″ drain to handle! It’s also a very bad idea to park a heavy RV over that shallow drain. It doesn’t work at all when it’s smashed. You need a heavy duty pipe for that if you plan on driving on it, or at least PVC schedule 40. But an RV still might even smash that. It will 100% smash that pipe you are using now.

  4. Robert Owens says:

    For the fulel set up, gonna need rigid conduit with explosion proof fittings and AHJ approved wiring method. Some require stuffing and fire proof putty/ caulk. Arc/ GFCI combo breaker, if you can get it. We’re being told no time soon on them in Kentucky. Love the videos. Thanks for all the hard work. Square D QO

  5. Art Franz says:

    You could have used an angle grinder on that transition ridge on the floor, knock the high spots off. Then a guy that’s good with a trowel could float that area with bridge concrete. You’d likely still see it but it would look 95% better. And you could roll toolboxes etc over it without having to put up ramps

  6. Archiie Barrett says:

    That perforated piping should be wrapped in fabric before it’s buried to prevent clogging and rooting. Also make sure the highest point is lower than your lowest grade on the garage. Also, you should have Y pipe cleanouts for your downspouts so you can wash them out if they clog.

    • jeepinass says:

      Sock pipe is fkn garbage.

    • Heavy Balls says:

      That’s what the rocks for I’m pretty sure

    • travis feltwater says:

      French drains with a retainer and possibly a 4 foot wall around building of block instead of the tin

    • D Jelonek says:

      @virus56777 It’s called landscaping fabric. It basically plastic but with holes so small only water passes through (kinda like a RO filter), It never “clogs” and is designed for this sort of thing. Not using it….. you will eventually clog the tube.

  7. Mike Sonneson says:

    When I was watching the build one of the first things I thought was there is going to be drainage problems with that hillside behind your shop.Especially with the denuded vegetation and moved soils. I won’t pontificate on what should be done since you are already addressing the issue and working with local soils and watershed. I watched,felt bad for the flood but still drank a few Keystones and enjoyed the content.

  8. Jack Affeldt says:

    I do drainage for a living, and one thing I absolutely recommend is a good old fashioned ditch. It’s easy for a French drain to get clogged with fines or get overwhelmed. With a ditch, you won’t be dealing with blockages. Water doesn’t flow uphill!

  9. Jose Antonio Lopez La TorreMrM says:

    Wow, so sorry to hear that Derick. Blessings man. This kind of thing only happens once and never again, it must be fixed. Stay strong man, best wishes to all of you.

  10. Steerclear01 says:

    Derek, your “trench” up on the hill isn’t wide enough to carry the volume of water coming down the mountain. Clay soil won’t allow the water to peculate so all of it is looking for the low point to pool. Definitely look at the building grade and make sure the lower ditch is lower than the building or you’ll be mopping that floor again. When you are setting the drainage ditch assume you’ll have 1″ of water covering that whole mountain coming for your building. I’d hate to see a guy and gal have to go through this again.

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