Will an ABANDONED C10 Run & Drive? Mothballed for YEARS

Will an ABANDONED C10 Run & Drive? Mothballed for YEARS

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Today we bring an abandoned 1969 Chevy back to life!

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Ames, IA, 50010

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33 Responses

  1. Junkyard Digs says:

    Go to https://buyraycon.com/jyd for 15% off your order! Brought to you by Raycon

  2. GasGuzler says:

    “And try to flip to make some money”
    *Words I never thought would come out of Kevin’s mouth* 😂

  3. David B says:

    A little tip for old engines as long as you have a timing light: Hook up the timing light and look at the marks – rev the engine and let it decelerate while watching the marks – they shouldn’t change much at all (less than 3 degrees, the less the better). If they move more than 3 degrees, your timing chain is loose – if they move upwards of 5 degrees, maybe ought to replace it….soon (especially if you have any “strange” noise when accelerating / decelerating). This, of course, assumes that any vacuum advance and manual advance (distributor weights, for example) are plugged / removed.

    You can also test the chain manually if you have easy access to the crank bolt. Open the distributor cap and note – exactly – where the rotor is pointing. Take a wrench and SLOWLY turn the crank back and forth – noting the amount that the crank turns before there is any movement of the distributor rotor. Once again, the less movement, the better.

    So, why all this? You’ll find more than a few old engines out there that are parked because the timing chain needs to be replaced. At times, owners will park the vehicle not knowing that it’s the timing chain – all they’ll know is “it just never runs right no matter what I do”. Yep…cause a bad chain – well, the engine is rarely properly timed – might rev up really great, but then pop like hell on deceleration……

    Edit: I should be more clear about 3 degrees, etc. If your standard timing at idle is say, 6 btdc, you’ll see the timing change to more and less than 6btdc (usually a little more on the accel side than the decel side). As long as your timing doesn’t change more than 3 degrees – more than 9 or less than 3 btdc – you’re generally fine. 3 degrees meaning you’ll see, on average, a 6 degree “swing”. Watch it, of course, if you see more than 3 degrees in either direction and certainly be concerned if you see 5 or more.

    • Wayne Davis says:

      @David B very true . I’ve done a few earlier 305 GM’s . They were prone to for timing chains and cam failures. I would check for slop when I turned the crank to see if the engine was free . I’ve bought probably 5 gen 3 firebird. 3 had bad cams .

    • Junkyard Digs says:

      What we do is simply take the cap off and turn the crank back and forth, watching how much play there is before the rotor moves, as you mentioned 🤘

    • R says:

      Yeah that makes sense..I was wondering why almost all of these old cars need tinkering with timing

    • Daniel James says:

      Or you could just grab the balexander and see how much play is it by feel. By the way most aftermarket timing sets have at least 3゚of play to begin with. He’s getting it running not not going back to factory or better specs.

    • MrBanaanipommi says:

      timing chain, or distributor is loose.

  4. Trenton2005 says:

    It’s always a great day when Junkyard Digs uploads a new video. I’m a Ford guy but I like these old Chevy trucks too and it is nice seeing them get another shot at life

    • Fire tablet says:

      I’ve been working at a body shop for a bit now and extra tips I learned was if you’re painting the door, it’s better to take off the mirror and belt molding (the trim at the bottom of the window) for a better paint job in the end. The mirror can get in the way, and if you’re unlucky, the clear coat could stick in that gap between the door and the belt molding

  5. drewping2002 says:

    I really like Kevin’s content. He does a great job talking through what he is doing. I’ve never had a Automotive class so I’m learning a lot about cars from his channel. Plus, Mook is a hoot! 😄

  6. James Bridge says:

    LOL- when you realized you forgot the shoe guide, I SO felt your pain! I have done that so many times myself! Great video, Kevin, we all really appreciate your time and especially your hands on knowledge 🙂

    • News Now Riverside Sgt Rock says:

      That big bolt that the springs attach to is called an anchor pin and the plate that goes over it behind the springs is the anchor washer, sometimes called an anchor plate (in the south where you are?)

  7. Born Again Torinos says:

    Kevin, there may be a ton of videos on doing drum brakes, but none as calm, clear and concise. Loved this.

    • K W says:

      @mcqueenfanman Agreed, a decent set of brake pliers or tools makes things super smooth. Never understood why people insist on using screwdrivers and pliers to do it.

    • mcqueenfanman says:

      I don’t know why he doesn’t use brake tools either. Learn to use them. They work quite well and it beats having a brake spring cut you. I literally find those tools cheap at flea markets and second hand stores. I even sent him a few.

    • Roy N says:

      @mcqueenfanman yep, short shoe is the leading, long is trailing. Dad was a professional mechanic, went to Lincoln Tech, in the 70s and taught me drum brakes in the 80s/90s.

    • Mike Adams says:

      @mcqueenfanman You are correct.

    • mcqueenfanman says:

      He put the front brake shoes on backwards. Bigs to the back is what our shop teacher always said.

  8. Harry Hagan says:

    Kevin you are amazing. You really know your stuff. I love how you explain what you’re doing so that people can learn from you.

    • Junkyard Digs says:

      Thank you sir! I can’t rescue them all, but if I spend my life teaching others how to do it, I can help rescue a lot of them

  9. Kenneth Sonier says:

    Good to see Mook and Angus. That’s definitely a decent truck. Sounds pretty healthy and good luck in the sale Kevin 👍✌️🇺🇲

  10. n1r0l anynonmouse says:

    Kevin, Thanks for the detailed explanation of a brake job, for the 500th time. It really helps us to understand what each part of the components work. The more I learn the more I realize, I AIN’T DOING MY OWN BRAKES! I am here for the laffs and Mook-Cam.

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